Boomers Blog

Woodcraft, by E. H. Kreps

2012-01-10T21:30:00.001Z

Woodcraft. Another great book, courtesy once again of Project Gutenberg.

Elmer H. Kreps was born in Union county, Pa., in 1880. At that time large and small game of the various species common to Central Pennsylvania was plentiful in the neighborhood of his home. From his early boyhood he took a great interest in hunting and trapping. As he grew older he visited various parts of the United States and Canada, and being a keen observer, picked up a vast amount of information about life in the woods and fields.

Wilderness Ways

2011-09-22T04:40:00.001+01:00

Wilderness ways - Another wonderful little book, courtesy once again of Project Gutenberg.

George Washington Sears 1821 - 1890.

2011-09-11T23:33:00.002+01:00

Known also as Nessmuk, an extraordinary man who's approach to wilderness living was so far ahead of his time. A hero of mine and a true woodsman.

His complete book, 'Woodcrat and Camping' is available here under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License.

http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34607/34607-h/34607-h.htm

http://www.zianet.com/jgray/nessmuk/forest_runes/license.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_W._Sears

Wild Russia - Arctic part 5

2011-03-16T10:22:00.000Z

Wild Russia - Arctic part 4

2011-03-14T10:21:00.000Z

Wild Russia - Arctic part 3

2011-03-12T10:21:00.000Z

Wild Russia - Arctic part 2

2011-03-10T10:21:00.000Z

Wild Russia - Arctic part 1

2011-03-08T10:21:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP6P3

2011-02-25T10:21:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP6P2

2011-02-25T10:20:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP6P1

2011-02-25T10:19:00.001Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP5P3

2011-02-19T10:20:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP5P2

2011-02-19T10:19:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP5P1

2011-02-19T10:18:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP4P3

2011-02-13T10:19:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP4P2

2011-02-13T10:18:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP4P1

2011-02-13T10:17:00.001Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP3P3

2011-02-07T10:18:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP3P2

2011-02-07T10:17:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP3P1

2011-02-07T10:16:00.001Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP2P3

2011-02-01T10:17:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP2P2

2011-02-01T10:16:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP2P1

2011-02-01T10:15:00.001Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP1P3

2011-01-26T10:16:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP1P2

2011-01-26T10:15:00.000Z

Lars Monsen - Canada EP1P1

2011-01-26T10:14:00.004Z

Norwegian adventurer Lars Monsen and his dogs travel across canadian wilderness making it an amazing journey that lasted for 2 Years and 7 months.

Norwegian Wildlife E03P03: Polar Bears

2010-09-29T17:30:00.000+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E03P02: Polar Bears

2010-09-28T17:30:00.000+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E03P01: Polar Bears

2010-09-27T17:30:00.001+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E02P03: Musk Oxen

2010-09-26T17:30:00.000+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E02P02: Musk Oxen

2010-09-25T17:30:00.000+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E02P01: Musk Oxen

2010-09-24T17:30:00.000+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E01P03 : Elk and wolves

2010-09-23T17:30:00.000+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E01P02 : Elk and wolves

2010-09-22T17:30:00.001+01:00

Norwegian Wildlife E01P01 : Elk and wolves

2010-09-21T17:30:00.001+01:00

Norwegian TV presenter Hedda Kise travels around Norway, finding out more about interesting Norwegian animals. In this episode, Hedda investigates the relationship between humans, elk and wolves in Norway. She follows scientists as they electronically tag elk and wolves, and joins a group of hunters on an autumn hunting trip.

Waterwalker

2010-09-09T17:30:00.000+01:00

This feature-length documentary follows naturalist Bill Mason on his journey by canoe into the Ontario wilderness. The filmmaker and artist begins on Lake Superior, then explores winding and sometimes tortuous river waters to the meadowlands of the river's source. Along the way, Mason paints scenes that capture his attention and muses about his love of the canoe, his artwork and his own sense of the land. Mason also uses the film as a commentary on the link between God and nature and the vast array of beautiful canvases God created for him to paint. Features breathtaking visuals and exciting whitewater footage, with a musical score by Bruce Cockburn.

Umeå - The City of Birch

2010-09-07T01:06:00.005+01:00

A few pages where you can find information on the beautiful City of Umeå which is located in Northern Sweden. I highly recommended Umeå as a city break destination or as a stop-over for anyone venturing further North.

http://www.umea.se/omkommunen/languages/inenglish.4.bbd1b101a585d704800067778.html

http://www.umu.se/digitalAssets/41/41759_utbengelskwebb.pdf

http://www.umea.host56.com/blog/?p=380

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ume%C3%A5

http://www.umea.host56.com/index.html

http://wikitravel.org/en/Ume%C3%A5

Mors Kochanski, late 1980's

2010-09-05T17:35:00.001+01:00

A program from the late 1980's on the subject of Mors Kochanski's Survival and Wilderness Skills courses, produced and aired by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation for the series 'On The Road Again' .

We apoligise for the poor quality of the recording, it is currently the only copy of this footage we have.

Mors Kochanksi is the Author of 'Northern Bushcraft' and 'Bush Arts', he still resides and instructs in Alberta, Canada.

Mors Kochanski Circa 1975 Part 2

2010-09-04T17:34:00.000+01:00

Mors Kochanksi, Author of 'Northern Bushcraft' and 'Bush Arts', being interviewed for television in 1975.

He was at this time delivering courses on wilderness survival at the University of Alberta as an associate professor, as well as being editor for the 'Alberta Wilderness Arts and Recreation' Publication.

Mors skills and techniques have evolved since 1975 and he continues to expand and refine his knowledge of Wilderness Living Skills and Survival; he still resides and instructs in Alberta, Canada

Mors Kochanski Circa 1975 Part 1

2010-09-03T17:03:00.002+01:00

HOW TO CLEAN A PERCH IN 10 SECONDS

2010-09-02T17:31:00.004+01:00

Sometimes you find a real gem of a video on YouTube, I'm really looking forward to trying this technique.

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E08P03

2010-09-01T15:30:00.002+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E08P02

2010-08-31T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E08P01

2010-08-30T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E07P03

2010-08-29T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E07P02

2010-08-28T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E07P01

2010-08-27T15:30:00.001+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E06P03

2010-08-26T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E06P02

2010-08-25T15:30:00.001+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E06P01

2010-08-24T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E05P03

2010-08-23T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E05P02

2010-08-22T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E05P01

2010-08-21T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E04P03

2010-08-20T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E04P02

2010-08-19T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E04P01

2010-08-18T15:30:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E03P03

2010-08-17T15:30:00.003+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E03P02

2010-08-16T15:30:00.002+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E03P01

2010-08-15T15:40:00.001+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E02P03

2010-08-14T15:40:00.001+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E02P02

2010-08-13T15:39:00.001+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E02P01

2010-08-12T15:37:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E01P03

2010-08-11T15:36:00.000+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365 (English Subtitles) E01P02

2010-08-10T15:35:00.003+01:00

Lars Monsen Nordkalotten 365

2010-08-09T15:33:00.003+01:00

Lars Thorbjørn Monsen is a Sami-Norwegian adventurer and journalist, famous for his explorations and back-packing expeditions in harsh wilderness. In particular, he became especially known for his thru-hiking trip in northern Canada and Alaska, which was filmed and documented by Monsen himself, he spent 2 years and 7 months on this trip alone.

Nordkalotten 365 sees Lars embark on an exciting adventure in the area of Scandinavia north of the Arctic Circle. In this first episode, Lars takes a canoe tour in Anarjohka National Park, joins an Elk hunt and demonstrates his skill with a fishing rod.

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Chaga

2009-11-02T04:57:00.022Z

Whilst out hiking in Sweden at the beginning of October I came across one of the biggest Inonotus Obliquus fungi I have ever seen. Approximate dimensions were 8x8x5" with a weight of around 1kg.

I. Obliquus is a black parasitic fungus that grows on Betula (birch trees) in the Northern Boreal forests or Taiga regions. It has long been used as a folk medicine in East European countries including Russia, where it is referred to as Chaga. It is highly regarded as a Panacea, a cure for many different conditions and scientific studies have found it to contain betulinic acid that has a highly significant effect in treating cancers, high blood pressure and diabetes.

Chaga was traditionally ingested in tea or powder form, inhaled from smoke and applied to the skin. I. Obliquus appears as a blackened burnt area on birch trees, and as such is also referred to as Cinder Conk due to its charred appearance. Another identifying feature is the orange hue of the inner that is visible through fissures on the roughly cracked surface or when the fruit body of the fungi is removed from the tree.

I. Obliquus develops on living trees, killing the sapwood and facilitating the fruition of the fungus inside the bark. Although most common on Betula, it is also occasionally found on Alnus, Fagus, Populus, Tilia and Sorbus.

Chaga tea is simple to prepare and has a pleasantly organic taste. The fungi is scraped or ground to a powder and a small amount is added to hot water and allowed to infuse.

Another name for I. Obliquus is True Tinder Fungus, which, as the name suggest has traditionally been used in fire lighting. My initial experiments with it as tinder have produced poor results and I find there to be much conflicting information on the process of preparing it for use. Many reports state how it takes a spark easily and without preparation, and that it will smoulder for a very long time however I have so far been unable to ignite it with either ferro rod or a traditional flint and steel striker and further tests are required.

Some useful links:

http://www.chagamushroom.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaga_mushroom
http://www.mushroomhunter.net/chaga_recipes.htm
http://mushroom-collecting.com/mushroomchaga.html
http://www.rogersmushrooms.com/gallery/DisplayBlock~bid~5349.asp

Mushrooming Without Fear

2009-08-04T03:18:00.022+01:00

Mushroom season is well underway and very soon I shall be heading off to one of the most pristine environments I know to indulge in some fungi foraging. I will be taking along my copy of ‘Mushrooming without Fear’ by Alexander Schwab, which in my opinion one of the best fungi field guides available.

This book takes a different approach to any other I have read in that the author concentrates on only twelve of the most common (and delicious) mushrooms available and emphasises a set of rules to ensure safe and accurate identification. This book is well presented, easy to understand and the advice and pictures are very descriptive. The author advises the reader to peruse the book twice before going out and to learn the set of rules by heart.

Also included is a folding field identification guide so that you don’t have to take the book along with you, there is also an accompanying website.

The mushrooms covered in this book are

Cep, Red-cracked boletus, Larch boletus, Bay boletus, Birch boletus, Hen of the woods, Chanterelle, Trumpet Chanterelle, Hedgehog fungus, Common puffball, Horn of plenty and Cauliflower mushroom.

Good stump, Bad stump

2009-08-03T18:00:00.002+01:00

A good tip I picked up from the sagacious Mr Wale from Bearclaw Bushcraft...

Good stump - The stump from a felled or fallen pine tree is easily identified as it rots from the outside in leaving a jagged protrusion from the forest floor. This can be an excellent source of the extremely resinous wood known as Maya or fatwood. The pitch-saturated parts of the 'good stump' appear bright orange with resin when you cut into the wood and a few slivers of this make an excellent addition to your fire-lighting kit. It can also be scraped to produce Maya dust which will easily take a light with a spark from a firesteel.

Bad stump - The stump of a spruce tree is differentiated as it rots from the inside out often leaving a complete ring of bark with a hollowed out centre, it is of little use as it is usually too saturated to use as punk wood for a coal extender.

Primus Litech Coffee Kettle

2009-06-30T01:53:00.015+01:00

In a previous post I have spoken of the importance of cutting tools to the outdoors person, however another item that I regard as being equally important to have with me whenever I venture out in The Nature is a metal pot or some other means of boiling water and cooking food.

In March 2009 I participated in a sub-arctic WEISS course where I gained first hand experience of the psychological and moral boosting benefits that come with being able to prepare a warm drink, particularly to the lost or stranded person.

The crusader type cups are a popular choice with many outdoors people and I have a dutch army issue equivalent that has served me well, but nowadays I prefer to use a small kettle. I have been using a Primus Litech Coffee Kettle for around 4 years and I find to be an excellent piece of kit. It is lightweight, extremely robust and well made. It is also very efficient and will boil a comparable amount of water twice as fast as a crusader cup.

I prefer the kettle over other cooking implements mainly owing to the fact that the majority of the foods I pack for a trip require no preparation other than re-hydrating with boiling water. Also, whilst it is fairly compact, I can still pack a folding cup, spork, brew-kit and butane lighter inside.

From the Primus website - Litech is made from ultra-lightweight, hard anodised aluminium, with a surface harder than stainless steel. It has a non stick finish for cooking. Litech also has an extremely even surface, with very shallow pores so there is little space for bacteria and dirt to collect in making it more hygienic than ordinary cookware and easier to clean. It has a folding handle and comes with a mesh bag. Weight: 150g.Volume: 0.9lt. Dimensions: 153 x 77mm.

Robert W. Service (1874–1958)

2009-06-16T04:23:00.012+01:00

Some of the most inspirational poetry I have read. Robert W. Service's Rhymes of a Rolling Stone. My personal favourite is titled I'm Scared of it All.

http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Author:Robert_W._Service

New Axe

2009-06-11T20:25:00.019+01:00

I have recently acquired a Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe which is the big brother to the renowned Small Forest Axe. Gransfors Bruks, a Swedish company based in the North East of the country, produce some of the best hand forged cutting tools available. I have been using a Small Forest Axe for several years and I find it to be a very efficient and capable tool that can be used to easily fell and limb small diameter trees and to process firewood. Despite this, I wanted something with a little more reach and heft so opted for the Scandinavian Forest Axe.

The Scandinavian Forest Axe is a traditional pattern professional limbing axe with a thin, curved 8cm face sharpened specifically for cutting into fresh, resinous wood and is ideally suited for use in the boreal forests of the north. The handle is 64cm long and the head weighs 1.2Kg. The longer handle and heavier head is a more practical choice for extended trips out or for cold weather usage where large supply of fuel wood is required.

I have used this axe against some well seasoned sycamore logs and also to fell a large birch tree of approximately 2ft. It is a comfortable axe to use and works well for finer tasks such as carving and splitting. The axe is relatively simple to sharpen and maintains a durable cutting edge.

Included with each Gransfors Bruks axe is a copy of The Axe Book that contains information on their ethos, some interesting historical facts as well as extremely practical information.

In my opinion the axe is an invaluable implement to the bushcrafter but as with any edged tool there are negative issues, namely safety and weight, however I feel these are outweighed by what can be accomplished with an axe. I have said before that if I had to choose a single tool to take into The Nature, without any hesitation it would be an axe.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axe

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/woodsmanship.pdf

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/mclarenmanual.pdf

Fire with a water bottle?

2009-06-04T23:33:00.014+01:00

A while back I watched a DVD by Thomas J. Elpel called Canoe Camping in which he demonstrates how to make fire using what he refers to as a 'puddle lens'. This involves using an upturned plastic drinks bottle as a makeshift magnifying lens to ignite dry, fibrous material. The concept of making fire with this method may seem unlikely, however the same principle applies to using a magnifying glass - the suns rays pass through the bottle and converge at a specific point, the emitted heat increases and creates what is referred to as a hot-spot.

During the recent hot weather I was reminded of this technique and decided to attempt it. I used a half-filled clear plastic bottle, held upside down to focus the suns light through the rounded top part onto a tinder bundle. Very quickly the finely teased dried grass began to produce a wisp of smoke that steadily increased before igniting into flames.

This proved to be a relatively simple method of fire lighting that required little preparation other than good, dry tinder and whilst it may not be a reliable means of producing fire in our temperate climate it remains a viable technique to use in hotter countries.

Custom Woodlore sheath

2009-06-04T21:39:00.024+01:00

Recently I decided to replace the case for my Woodlore knife as the original neck sheath had been damaged beyond repair. I chose to commission a custom belt sheath from Mark Jenkins at Bushcraft Leather after seeing several of his products and being impressed with the quality of his work.

I contacted Mark and explained what I wanted and together we decided on a suitable pattern. I chose a belt sheath with a fixed belt loop and a firesteel holder made from 3.5mm natural vegetable tanned leather hide. I was informed of the price beforehand that I found to be extremely competitive. I posted the knife to Mark to allow him to wet-form the sheath around the blade which would guarantee a secure fit and prevent the knife coming loose.

A week later the knife and new case arrived via recorded delivery. I was immediately impressed. The deep Scandinavian-style sheath is expertly wet-formed and holds the knife securely, the finish of the leather is of the highest standard and the stitching is some of the best I have seen. The belt loop is of a very accommodating size and the firesteel holder perfectly shrouds a standard army-model ferrocerium rod. Like the original Woodlore case, there is a spacer piece along the edge of the join that prevents the blade from slicing through the stitching and a lanyard/thong attachment point at the bottom. The case has a very robust feel and the colour perfectly compliments the scales of the knife.

The finished product is exactly as I envisioned, in fact it has more than exceeded my expectations. As such, I have decided to commission another custom piece, a possibles pouch of my own design, the pattern of which I am currently discussing with Mark. As well as custom pieces, Mark also hand-makes various leather items aimed at the bushcrafter, including leather belts and pouches, I recommend a browse around his site or drop him an email if you have a design you would like to commission.

Mark states, “I hope I have created some functional bushcraft leatherwork that will be of use to you and will complement your existing kit. Everything I make is done with as much skill and hard work as I can muster, I am told I am a perfectionist, so if I am not happy with it, you won’t get it! I hope you get as much enjoyment out of it, as I get making it".

The Firesteel

2009-05-29T02:20:00.002+01:00

Second only in importance to a cutting tool, I regard the ferrocerium rod, colloquially referred to as a Firesteel, to be one of the most essential pieces of equipment I take with me whenever I venture out into The Nature. I always have matches and a butane gas lighter with me in my fire-making kit however I use a Firesteel as my primary method of fire lighting whenever I am outdoors.

I believe that here are many benefits of using a Firesteel over more conventional and traditional fire lighting methods, the main one being its durability. The larger Firesteel models are good for around 12,000 strikes, potentially that is 12,000 fires. Simply put, if you were to light a fire with each strike, 1 fire per day, it will last for more than 32 years, and unlike a butane or petrol lighter, a Firesteel does not require an additional fuel source and will therefore never run out.

Firesteels are also extremely robust and hardwearing; I have never had one break on me, nor know anyone else who has. Another benefit is that, unlike matches, a Firesteel is not affected by water in the short term. Prolonged exposure to moisture can result in some tarnishing however this can easily be scraped off and does not affect its ability to throw a shower of sparks.

A Firesteel does not require the special preparation of fine tinder such as amadou or charcloth like those used with a flint and steel striker to catch the small and relatively cold sparks that are produced by this traditional method. A Firesteel produces an intense shower of hot sparks, burning at approximately 3000 C that will ignite most dry fibrous materials such as dry grass, bracken, birch bark and, as Mors Kochanski demonstrates, can even be used to light the finely curled wood shavings of a featherstick.

My preferred tinder to use with in conjunction with a Firesteel are cotton wool balls with a liberal coating of Vaseline applied, this tinder burns long and hot. I have measured the burn time of a Vaseline soaked cotton ball at slightly more than 3 minutes whereas a dry cotton ball burns for approximately 40 seconds. I make a batch of this and pack it into 35mm film canisters and carry a few of these with me as well, one in my pocket, one in the fire-making kit and another in my pack. I also use these Vaseline-soaked cotton balls to wipe over my knife and axe at the end of each day to deter rust.

The reliability, robustness and value for money of the Firesteel makes it a must have item for any person who ventures outdoors. I purchased my very first Firesteel from Woodlore back in 2001 and it is still in use today, with only slight signs of wear.

Personally, when I strike a Firesteel, I do so only from about the bottom third. This is to prevent the middle part being thinned out, becoming weak and snapping. Typically the back of a knife blade is used to draw a spark but I have had equally good results using quartz and flint. I prefer not to use the striker that is supplied with the Firesteel as it gouges into the metal leaving furrows along the length.

A word to the wise, not all Firesteels are created equally, cheaper ones are cheap for a reason. I was given one as a gift some time back and while it does produce a spark, it pales in comparison to a Primus or Light my fire model.

I carry one on a daily basis attached to my key and would recommend others do the same. I also have one attached to my knife sheath and another in may fire-making kit – remember the rule of threes, if something is important, carry 3 of them…

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrocerium

Cutting Tools

2009-05-29T02:19:00.002+01:00

The single most important item I take with me whenever I venture into The Nature is a cutting tool. For the hiker, hunter or bushcrafter, having a good cutting tool makes life just that little bit easier. Mors Kochanski posited the popular phrase 'The more you know, the less you carry' and having a good, strong knife or axe enables me to do just that. A cutting tool affords me the means by which I can fashion practical items and utensils and allows me to adapt my immediate environment in such a way as to increase my comfort, maintain my safety and preserve my life.

KnivesEvery person has their own idea of what constitutes an ideal knife. Personally, I have never been interested in large Rambo knives and have always preferred more compact utilitarian tools. Throughout the years I have had experimented with many different sizes and types of knives ranging from the Spec Plus bowie knife to a Mick Wardell custom made hunting knife and everything in between. My trials with all of these different knives have allowed me to develop my own list of important attributes that I feel a good knife should have.

Primarily, I want a knife that represents good value for money. My experience has taught me that a knife costing £10 performs equally as well as a knife that costs many times the price. Why pay over the odds?A good knife must be reliable. I require a knife that I can comfortably use for every task from butchering meat to battoning wood and that will not break or blunt easily. It must have a case that will hold it securely and that the knife will not work out of. A folding knife should have the ability to be locked both open and closed and a lanyard hole is also desirable.

It has to be practical. A good knife must fit well in my hand and be comfortable enough that I can use it in different grip positions, it should not cause blisters or discomfort through extended use.

The width has to be correct. A knife with wide a blade is great for splitting and chopping wood however it can be difficult to carve with, I like the blade to be no more than 3mm thick.

I prefer carbon steel to stainless steel. I find that a carbon steel knife is easier to sharpen than a stainless steel one and retains a keen edge for longer. A carbon blade can also be used to strike against a Firesteel or piece of flint. The downside of having a carbon steel knife is that it may rust quickly compared to a stainless one, however this is immaterial as I ensure all of my kit is well maintained.

A good knife should be aesthetically pleasing. If a knife looks good, this enhances the pleasure of owning and using it.No gimmicks. For me, a knife should be a knife. I don’t want one with a torch, Firesteel or whistle built in, or a hollow-handled affair with a button compass on the pommel.

Nessmuk advocated using a trinity of cutting tools and I try to emulate this. I like to take a small folder, a fixed blade knife and either a saw or axe. There are countless knives that meet my criteria but my folding knife of choice is a modified carbon steel Opinel No8. I carry this around my neck in a leather sheath that also houses a Light My Fire™ Firesteel and a BladeTech™ sharpener, three essential tools which I carry on my person at all times when I am in The Nature.

For a fixed blade knife I use the excellent carbon steel Mora 740, I have a couple of these that were given out as training knives on Bushcraft courses that I attended a few years back. I have modified one slightly by grinding off the finger guard, this makes it much more comfortable in use and allows you to 'choke' the knife close to the blade which improves the grip. These really are good knives. The carbon steel blades are easy to sharpen and hold a very keen edge, particularly when stropped. The Mora 740 are partial tang knives with the blade sitting around 2/3 of the way into the moulded handle however they are extremely strong and robust.

A very good friend of mine recently gave me a carbon steel Mora 510 with which I am extremely impressed. This knife, costing around £10, is one of the best knives I have ever used, so much so that I now regard this as my primary knife. It is small and unobtrusive, yet has tremendous cutting capabilities and edge retention. The bright red handle is contoured to improve grip and there is just a suggestion of a finger guard. The only criticism I have for this knife, and which also applies to most Mora’s, is that the spine requires some file work to clean the edge and make it better for using with a Firesteel however this is a minor modification that can be done in just a few minutes. I would highly recommend this knife.

I also have a Ray Mears Woodlore knife that I purchased back in 2001; it is the Alan Wood version with the neck sheath. I coveted this knife for a long time and saved up for an age to buy it however I was somewhat disappointed when I finally got it. I like the blade profile a lot but I find the 6mm width makes for an uncomfortable tool and I have never really got on with the handle either, the grain and texture of the wood is very nice but the scalloping on the sides and the flared pommel just don’t fit right in my hand. As such, it has been relegated to a drawer somewhere and is essentially a trophy knife. Shortly after getting it I had my name engraved along the blade, had I not, I would have likely sold it by now.

Recently I entered an online competition and was lucky enough to win a SurvivAll Kukri. I took this with me on a recent trip to Sweden instead of my axe and was extremely impressed with its capabilities. I was able to use it for everything from felling spruce trees, making feather sticks and chopping through the ice for fishing holes. The handle of this kukri has a more traditional western pattern that is extremely comfortable to use and the 10” blade has a substantial heft to it that assists in chopping.

Another knife I would recommend is the stainless steel Cold Steel Finn Bear. I have recently purchased one of these for my partner. It is an exceptionally nice knife with an especially tactile grip and deep Scandinavian sheath that ensures a secure carry. At around £15 it represents great value for money. The only downside of this particular knife is that the blade cannot be used as a striker for a Firesteel due to the low carbon content of the metal and the rounded spine, this is not the case with all stainless steels though, I have been reliably informed that the surgical steel EKA H8 can cast a spark almost as good as a carbon blade.

Multi tools

I have had several multi tools over the years, my old favourite being a Gerber Legend that was sadly lost thanks to airport luggage handlers. I currently use a Leatherman Wave. This is undeniably a good tool with some very clever functions, I like the fact that all the the main blades are external and can be opened and closed with one hand, as well as this, all of the other tools can also be locked open. There are a couple of inane features I don’t like such as the small eyeglass screwdriver, I think an awl would be a much more practical feature. I find the scissors on the Leatherman Wave to be poor in comparison to the Fiskars ones that are on Gerber tools and think a lanyard attachment point would be a handy addition.

Axes

There are several disadvantages to an employing an axe over other cutting tools. Firstly, using and axe for any length of time is hard work and requires much effort, it is all to easy to become tired and loose your focus which is when mistakes are made and accidents happen. I once witnessed a friend remove a substantial portion of his thumb with an axe through poor technique and lack of forethought. Secondly, it is nigh on impossible to stop an axe in mid swing, once it is in motion, inertia will carry an axe through its arc of travel until it contacts something (like a thumb). Lastly, a saw is a much safer alternative to an axe. Most people would be able to pick up a saw and be semi proficient in its use in only a short time, not so with an axe which require a great deal of practice and concentration during use. If enough consideration is given to the follow through of the swing of an axe, the risk of injury when using one is greatly reduced.

Despite these disadvantages, when used correctly and given the respect it deserves, a lot can be achieved with an axe. Personally, I like axes. In fact, if I had to pick just one cutting tool I would go for an axe every time. I have a Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe which is an excellent little tool and can accomplish most tasks however, I would prefer the Scandinavian Forest Axe which has a slightly heavier head and longer handle which makes for a more capable tool.

Saws

I currently have a Bacho Laplander saw that I find to be a very effective tool to use. The handle is a textured rubber material that provides a secure grip on both the push and pull stroke. The blade can be locked open and closed and in use it rips through wood, green or dry, with minimal exertion. The formation of the cutting edge clears the sawdust from the kerf effortlessly and the teeth are very durable, I have had mine for more that a year now and have changed that blade only once. The drawback with this saw is the price of the replacement blades. The saw retails for around £20 and replacement blades can cost anywhere up to £15. Previously I had a Gerber Exchange-a-Blade saw, this was slightly smaller that the Bacho saw but could also be locked open and closed. The replacement blades for this saw were around £5 however they were much more flimsy and seemed to dull quite quickly, hence the change.

I keep my cutting tools sharp, clean and oiled. If I am not using them for a while then I will give them a light coating of Renaissance Wax to protect the metal. I must mention that safety is paramount when using a cutting tool, make sure you pick up a cuts kit whenever you pick up a cutting tool and keep it to hand. My cuts kit consists of assorted plasters, steri-strips, micro-pore tape and a military first field dressing (FFD). It is deliberately small so as to be unobtrusive; I can simply leave it in a jacket pocket until I need it.

Bushcraft Navigation

2009-05-29T02:18:00.001+01:00

I have just attended a Bearclaw Bushcraft Weekend Camp, the theme of which was an Introduction to Navigation and was hosted by Gary from Bearclaw Bushcraft and Will from Bushcraft Navigation.

The syllabus was aimed at the novice with little or no navigational experience or those wanting a refresher in basic navigational skills. It was designed specifically with the bushcrafter in mind although it was equally applicable to anyone who ventures out into The Nature. It is intended to equip you with a fundamental understanding of the principles of using a map and compass and to enable you to plan a route, venture off the beaten path and navigate your way through unfamiliar territory.

The bushcraft camp was held over three days, although Friday evening was very much an informal affair where everyone the opportunity to relax in front of the campfire, enjoy the company of like minded folk and indulge in a little libation. It was good to meet up with old friends and make some new ones.

The fist of the 3 lesson took place on Saturday morning. We were introduced to the basics of map and compass navigation and Will discussed various topics such as navigation terminology, correct use of a compass, pacing, setting your map and following compass bearings, compensating for grid north and magnetic north variations etc. We were informed of the many different types of compasses and maps available and the benefits and drawbacks of using different scale maps (1:25,000 and 1:50,000). Will also covered route planning and using a route card, the different types or North (of which there are 3) and navigational techniques such as handrailling and aiming-off. We were asked to complete a route planner from a specific set of grid references to test our practical knowledge.

On Sunday there was a navigational exercise whereby we were given a series of compass bearings and distances and, starting from a fixed point, had to follow these bearing in an attempt to find various markers placed around the forest. There were 4 markers in total and each marker had on it a picture that we were expected to identify to prove we had found it. It is testament to Wills expert tuition that all of the course participants succeeded in locating each of the markers and it was a great boost for the confidence knowing that I had progressed from having almost no practical knowledge to being able to navigate with a compass and accurately follow a route to a specific location.

I thoroughly enjoyed every aspect of this course and feel I have learnt a lot from it. Whilst I remain very much a novice, this course has kindled my desire to improve upon the skills that I have begun to develop and apply them practically. The syllabus was well thought out and Will, apart from being a bloody nice bloke with a sense of humour second to none, has a relaxed teaching style that encourages interest in what had previously been a daunting subject for me.

It is the aim of Bushcraft Navigation to promote and develop the art of navigation within the bushcraft community and I believe there is no better person to endorse this than Will. He has been professionally involved in map reading and all aspects of wilderness navigation since leaving school and has over 12 years of practical experience in this field.

The entire weekend had a laid-back feel and there was plenty of time to relax and enjoy the excellent company as well as the beautiful flora and fauna of the area. Highly recommended.

Charcloth

2009-05-29T02:16:00.001+01:00

When a piece of hardened steel and flint are brought together under force, the ensuing friction removes tiny curls of metal and the expelled energy causes them to increase to a critical temperature. With practise and a bit of luck, one can control and direct these tiny glowing metal curls onto a specially prepared tinder and encourage it into flame.

It is my opinion that the most important component of a traditional flint and steel set is neither the flint nor steel, but the tinder. The sparks formed when using this time-honoured method are relatively small and cold compared to those produced by a ferrocerium rod and as such they require a fine and extremely combustible tinder on which to land. Charcloth is my preferred tinder to use with a traditional flint and steel, owing to its ease of manufacture and low production cost. One pack of yellow cotton dusters costing 50p has provided me with enough charcloth to last a year.

Amadou is an excellent alternative to charcloth, however the production of amadou is somewhat laborious in that you have to locate a suitable Horses Hoof fungus (fomes fomentarius) and process it by removing the middle trama layer which has to be boiled in a lye solution of wood ash and water then pounded flat and dried. Comparatively, charcloth is simple to make.

My method is to cut some 100% cotton material into pieces, put it in a tin on the fire and let it burn away until all that remains is the carbonised remnants of the cloth. I use a travel sweet tin but any type of tin with a tight fitting lid will work. I make a hole in the lid to let out the gasses given off during combustion process, it is important to remember that if the hole is too small the pressure inside the tin can build up and force the lid off causing the cotton to prematurely ignite, too big a hole and the gasses given off during the charring can ignite and travel back inside the tin. The hole should be approximately 2-3 mm wide a rule of thumb although this depends on the size of the tin and the amount of cotton being charred.

Almost as soon as the tin goes on a fire it starts to billow a dense, acrid smoke, this is nauseating stuff so I’m careful not to breathe it in. There is not set time, it will be done when it is ready and depends on how much cotton I am charring, as well as the wind and ambient temperature.

I leave the tin in the fire until it has stopped producing smoke then place a small wooden peg into the hole and remove it from flames. It cools fairly quickly and is ready to be used instantly. The charcloth should be fairly easy to tear but not so overly delicate as it crumbles. If it is brittle with a glazed appearance it is over-done and pretty useless, if it is still recognisable as cotton, I replace the lid on and continue charring it in the fire until it is entirely blackened.

Different types of cottons give varying results, this is likely due to the difference in their density and weave. Some ignite quickly and burn away before you have time to transfer the ember to your tinder bundle, others simply don’t catch a spark at all. Charred denim for example is not so good at catching a spark but can be effectively utilised as a coal extender, once you have a piece of charcloth lit, place it in some charred denim which will fortify the ember and increase your chances of blowing your tinder bundle to flame.

Previously I have preferred to use IKEA cotton tea towels but recently a good friend suggested I try yellow cotton dusters, I did, and with great success. In my opinion, these yield the best charcloth out of all the materials I have tried, other that pure cotton wadding which is in a league of its own.

When I use charcloth to generate an ember, I prefer to put a small piece on top of the flint and strike the steel downwards which causes sparks to be thrown upwards, I place the frayed edge outermost as this gives the sparks a greater surface area on which to land. Alternatively you can place the steel on top of the charcloth and strike the flint downwards so as the sparks fall onto the charcloth, either method works well.

The shelf life on charcloth is pretty much infinite as long as it is kept dry, however if it should become damp or wet I suspect it could be dried out again in a tin over the fire, though I have not tried this. I store my charclot in a ziplock plastic bag which is kept inside my fire lighting kit.

When I am using my traditional flint and steel to light a fire, the charcloth is the last component I produce, I prepare the tinder bundle, kindling and fuel wood first, then the charcloth. I seal the bag and put it away in its place before I start to make a fire to prevent it becoming misplaced or exposed to moisture in the air or precipitation.